3/4” Diameter A33 Hex Cutting Chisel
made from A33 tool steel, forged entirely by hand. Everything I make has a polished striking end and working end regardless of the finish.
Featuring a rounded striking end (which I do not harden) and a hardened working end, I recommend a tooling-dedicated hammer to avoid damage to a forging hammer, but, you do you :)
ALL of my tools are finished with ZH Fabrication’s “Forge-Finish” Wax, which is a minimal yet rust resistant coating.
Every item I have listed is individually made to order in my small Arizona shop, every item is unique, and nothing is perfect. These tools convey personality as much as they provide usefulness.
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A33 vs. S7:
Atlantic 33 is my preferred choice for all hot-work dedicated tools. It’s seemingly magical property of being a water-quench steel that does not require tempering makes it an ideal choice. Plus, it’s much tougher than your standard sucker rod, 1045, or H13 tools. If you get a chip or ding, just grind it, get it bright orange, water quench, and back to work, easy! Not quite as tough as S7, I’d be cautious using this steel cold, but it will outperform the previous mentioned steels.
S7 is my preferred hot/cold work combo steel, as it’s toughness in a cold application is legendary, insanely beefy stuff. That being said, it is very temperamental regarding heat, so it’s important not to water cool your S7 if it has any heat past grey (the second it has any glow, don’t touch water) or else it will crack. S7 is air-hardening, and requires an intensive tempering cycle. It’s finicky in a hot application, but well worth the trouble for the insane durability.
in short -
S7 is insanely durable, but heat sensitive. Ideal for hot/cold work versatility.
A33 is still much stronger than almost any other tooling steel (other than S7), but doesn’t mind the heat.
** touchmark locations and exact finish may vary
3/4” Diameter A33 Hex Cutting Chisel
made from A33 tool steel, forged entirely by hand. Everything I make has a polished striking end and working end regardless of the finish.
Featuring a rounded striking end (which I do not harden) and a hardened working end, I recommend a tooling-dedicated hammer to avoid damage to a forging hammer, but, you do you :)
ALL of my tools are finished with ZH Fabrication’s “Forge-Finish” Wax, which is a minimal yet rust resistant coating.
Every item I have listed is individually made to order in my small Arizona shop, every item is unique, and nothing is perfect. These tools convey personality as much as they provide usefulness.
- - - - - -
A33 vs. S7:
Atlantic 33 is my preferred choice for all hot-work dedicated tools. It’s seemingly magical property of being a water-quench steel that does not require tempering makes it an ideal choice. Plus, it’s much tougher than your standard sucker rod, 1045, or H13 tools. If you get a chip or ding, just grind it, get it bright orange, water quench, and back to work, easy! Not quite as tough as S7, I’d be cautious using this steel cold, but it will outperform the previous mentioned steels.
S7 is my preferred hot/cold work combo steel, as it’s toughness in a cold application is legendary, insanely beefy stuff. That being said, it is very temperamental regarding heat, so it’s important not to water cool your S7 if it has any heat past grey (the second it has any glow, don’t touch water) or else it will crack. S7 is air-hardening, and requires an intensive tempering cycle. It’s finicky in a hot application, but well worth the trouble for the insane durability.
in short -
S7 is insanely durable, but heat sensitive. Ideal for hot/cold work versatility.
A33 is still much stronger than almost any other tooling steel (other than S7), but doesn’t mind the heat.
** touchmark locations and exact finish may vary
